file Safe watts considering ohms

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Eric Tichi Posted 4 years 1 week ago
#13842
gold star explanation. thank you so much.
Play it loud.

Emotiva UMC-200
Anthem MCA50
Triton 5 L/R
SuperCenter XXL
SuperSat 3 surounds
SVS PB-2000 (dual)
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Moderator Posted 4 years 1 week ago
#13857
Yes, nice explanation. A few points of clarity:

1) There are still a lot of amps out there that double power from 8-4 and 4-2 ohm loads;

2) Regarding your statement "I'm talking about 3dB increase, or about 50% louder.", conventional wisdom says 3dB is "just perceptibly louder" (doubling of power), 10dB is considered "twice as loud". (10 times the power)
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GDHAL Posted 3 years 8 months ago
#15038
Just a "resurrection" follow up to this topic. :)

As murphyslaw1978 correctly pointed out "a 350 watt typical A/B or G or H amplifier is only about 50% efficient at the most. Class D are 80-95% efficient. So 350 watts per channel into 8 ohms at 120 volts requires about 11.6 amps to be drawn at the outlet. "

The Triton's use a class D amplifier and the theoretical efficiency is 100% ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier ). For simplicity, lets assume 100% efficiency is the case with the T1s (but I welcome the moderator to advise a more accurate number).

So, my question is, given the above example, what is the wattage each T1 would draw given the example above (350 watt output per channel)?

Additionally, given that the T1 amp is 1600 watts, is this to say that at 120 volts they can draw 13.3 amps?
Golden Ear Triton Reference (pair), Musical Fidelity M6si, Schiit Yggdrasil-B, Oppo UDP-205, Emotiva ERC-3, LG OLED65C9PUA, Salamander Synergy Triple Unit SL20, Audeze LCD-X
halr.x10.mx/TritonReference.htm ; halr.x10.mx/other.html ; halr.x10.mx/AV.jpg
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murphyslaw1978 Posted 3 years 8 months ago
#15039
As long as we are talking theory, 100% efficiency, etc., we can also assume a worst-case current draw, which is almost certainly almost never going to happen. But yes, 1600 watts at 120v requires 13.3 amps.

A couple of things to note:

1.) While we do have some 3rd party measurements on the impedance curves forthe T1s (see below links), we don't really have those figures for the bass section that's handled by the amplifier. But I'm guessing it looks like most subwoofer curve and has some low dips and high peaks. It only the low dips that require the most current.

2.) Even when asked to deliver high current, most music ends up being close to the 1/3rd duty cycle in actual amplifier output due the peaky nature of music, etc. So it could be entirely possible that you can divide 13.3 amps by 3 to get a more realistic number.

3.) You could test the actual draw by hooking up a meter to the 120v input and play sine waves at high volumes to see what kind of power you are taking in. But I would still apply 85-90% efficiency to the Class D because I think much more beyond that gets pretty optimistic.

Stereophile here: www.stereophile.com/content/goldenear-te...#12gMq58LKG6xWwiT.97

Sound & Vision here: www.soundandvision.com/content/goldenear...#Dmp4dYHFFPuZKuQI.97
7.1 today, moving to 7.1.4 tomorrow
(2) Triton Two - front mains
(1) Sat 60C - center
(2) Sat 50s - sides
(2) Sat 50s - rear
(2) DIY 18" Stereo Integrity subs, 1100w each
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murphyslaw1978 Posted 3 years 8 months ago
#15040
By the way, I forgot to metion that puling 13.3 amp for a very short timeframe is quite different than pulling 13.3 amp continuously over many seconds or minutes. It's possible that the amp draws much more than 13.3amp. For example, my iNUKE 6000dsp power amp can really only provide 1100 watts x2 channels continuosly, but it can pull upwards of 80amps from its 15-amp connector for very brief periods.
7.1 today, moving to 7.1.4 tomorrow
(2) Triton Two - front mains
(1) Sat 60C - center
(2) Sat 50s - sides
(2) Sat 50s - rear
(2) DIY 18" Stereo Integrity subs, 1100w each
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Moderator Posted 3 years 8 months ago
#15041

murphyslaw1978 wrote: 3.) You could test the actual draw by hooking up a meter to the 120v input and play sine waves at high volumes to see what kind of power you are taking in. But I would still apply 85-90% efficiency to the Class D because I think much more beyond that gets pretty optimistic.


WHOA, DO NOT PLAY SINE WAVES THROUGH YOUR SYSTEM. After you destroy the speakers (and probably other stuff) they will not be covered under warranty.

What is it we are trying to figure out here exactly guys? There's been a full discussion on power draw elsewhere in the forum (amplifier ratings have nothing to do with the circuit breaker in your home). Playing the Tritons at full tilt with a music source is unlikely to take more than 1-2 amps as far as the circuit rating is concerned.

The impedance at low frequencies in the powered Triton is completely irrelevant, the driving amplifier sees NO LOAD for the frequencies covered by the internal amplifier.
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