file remove, rotate or replace Supersat 60 tweeter? How??

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bsinger Posted 4 weeks 13 hours ago
#28602
How is the tweeter on the SuperSat 60 removed? I have removed the crossover and the nuts on the tweeter, but the tweeter doesn't move. Is it glued in? Any tips on removal?

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bsinger Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago
#28606
Ok, I figured it out. I would not recommend anyone attempts to rotate a tweeter on a Supersat. You will do at least some damage to the speaker. Contact your dealer, sell the speaker & buy the appropriate version or just live with the different dispersion characteristics.

If the tweeter needs replacement, speak to your dealer or GE for your options.

Now if you are stubborn and foolish like me, continue but read this entire procedure before moving forward. Get ready to damage your speaker. Here is how it works...

You have a round tweeter, a baffle and a square Goldenear tweeter face plate.

The face plate is glued to the baffle and it must come off. The problem is you can't get to the glued section easily. The glue is on the flat parts of the face plate. It is right behind the etched Goldenear writing as well as the other three unmarked sides. You could try prying this off. You are probably going to damage the faceplate and tweeter. Slide something between the faceplate and metal bars that protect the tweeter and pry it from there. That isn't directly where the glue is. It may not work well. If you haven't ruined your speaker yet, go ahead and give up now before you do.

If that prying doesn't work well, you may want to move on. You will have to remove the back of the speaker anyway.

There is a lot going on in that shallow speaker. Everything is tight. It will be tough to get back together and you may damage some wires or connections taking off the back of the speaker. Again, a good time to give up. It is hard to get products back in their original packaging.

You need to remove the the screws along the front baffle. Once you open the can of worms, there is the connection to the binding posts to remove. Then the back is off. Take lots of pictures from different angles. Most of the connections are obscured, and pictures will help. The wires are strategically placed. they need to be right when the cover goes back on.

You have to disconnect the crossover and all connections between the crossover and drivers. Again, pictures first. Then remove the screws holding the crossover and it will start to come off. Then there are connections to the tweeter under the crossover to disconnect. Now you can see the back of the tweeter.

You are half way there.

The tweeter is held in by four bolts. You need to take the nuts on the back of the tweeter off first. Hopefully you do not have to apply too much force and crack the baffle section under the faceplate where the bolt end is. Two of these nuts also protect the delicate wiring of the tweeter. If the tweeter is good and you are just rotating it, you may ruin it at this point. That is if you haven't already damaged it. You are probably too stubborn to stop at this point.

Picture a normal nut and bolt. You can't tighten the nut side down without holding the bolt side. It would just spin freely. Underneath the faceplate the bolt is sunk into a hex indentation in the baffle that prevents it from spinning. This is similar to a carriage bolt sunk into wood. Now if the faceplate wasn't there, you could simply push the bolts out of the holes in the tweeter casing.

In my case, I was guessing I pushed the bolts and noticed just a bit of the faceplate was getting pushed out from the baffle. I was able to get under the corner of the face plate, pushing the bolts and working around the faceplate gap until the glue broke free and the faceplate came off. The mystery was solved and I could see the bolts that needed to be removed.

The tweeter was still held in by some glue or gasket or something. I tool flexible paper thin metal along with glue solvent (Un-Cure CA Debonder) to slowly work my way around the tweeter. There was slight damage doing this but eventually the tweeter was free. I used an old spark plug gaping tool that had flat flexible metal of varying thickness to work between the tweeter and the housing.

Then you need to rotate and/or replace, and put it all back together.

Good Luck.

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anthem Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago
#28608
From your Original post, why are you removing the tweeter? You never said. Reading your latest post almost put me in cardiac arrest. I feel physically drained.

Are you the Original owner? If so, your warranty should cover this.
D-Sonic m3a-600m Mono > Decware Zen Torii mk4 > McIntosh MC152 > Emotiva xpa1 Mono's > Anthem Statement P2 > Primaluna ProLogue Premium Preamp > Morrow Audio > Oppo 205 > Decware ZLC > Triton Reference

Every great performance deserves an Audience!

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bsinger Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago
#28609
LOL - that was the intention.

In my case, I melted the tweeter doing some test tones at reference level sweeps. Not a good idea. 2nd owner and I picked up a replacement tweeter on ebay (parted out apparently). I foolishly thought I could easily swap the tweeter out.
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